In developing this week’s barbecue focused theme, we realized that we often think of it only in terms of the familiar, i.e. Texas style, low and slow brisket, or quick and easy grilling such as with chicken. Recently we read about (but unfortunately missed) a fundraiser benefitting a nearby food pantry and featuring “an authentic braai.” A good cause and equally intriguing word – what is a braai? Turns out, it’s something similar to our down-home get togethers, but with its own traditions. We reached out to South African Tourism North America for some more information and possibly a recipe or two. Kindly, they put us in touch with Top Chef alum and South African-born Chef, Elizabeth Binder, for some insight. Chef Binder, a graduate of the Christina Martin School of Food and Wine who went on to the kitchens of several renowned establishments such as Del Ponte, Jardinière and Bizou before opening award winning Bar Bambino with Christopher Losa, shared two additional fun phrases (and delicious recipes), chakalaka and peri-peri, as recommendations for bringing a taste of South Africa to backyard BBQs this summer.
What differentiates a braai from a barbecue in the U.S.?
EB: To braai meat is a South African tradition; we usually do it once or twice a week, if not more. It’s a chance to get your friends and families together, sip some wine and even down a couple of cold beers. The word ‘braaivleis’ is Afrikaans for ‘grilled meat’, while the word ‘braai’ is Afrikaans for’ barbeque or grill’ (and it is social custom for all ethnic backgrounds in South Africa). The word ‘vleis’ is Afrikaans for ‘meat’ and functions as a verb when describing how food is cooked and as a noun when describing the cooking equipment, such as the grill.
I think the cultural nuances make the real difference between South African braai and U.S. barbecue. The traditions around the braai can be considerably different from barbecue, even if the method of food preparation is very similar.
A braai is a social occasion that has specific traditions and social norms. In all South African cultures, women rarely cook meat at a social gathering, as this is normally the preserve of men. The men gather around the braaistand (grill) outdoors and cook the meat, while women prepare the sides, salads and vegetables. The meal is then subsequently eaten outside by the braaistand. The cooking of the meat is not the prerogative of all the men attending, as one person is normally in charge. His role is to attend to the fire, check that the coals are ready and cook the meat. Per traditional etiquette, others are not permitted to interfere with the braaier’s duties, except if expressly asked to help. Other men may assist in the cooking, but generally only partake in fireside conversations while having a drink in hand.
Which herbs, spices or cuts of meat are most commonly used in South African braai recipes?
Wood is the most widely used braai fuel, while charcoal and briquettes are used for convenience and kettle braais are owned by most. When I was growing up, my father used an old steel drum (halved length-wise) filled with charcoal and topped with a grill grid. It was not fancy but effective for large gatherings.
Meats are the mainstay of the South African braai and typically include boerewors, sosaties, kebabs, marinated chicken, pork and lamb chops, steaks (T-bone/ porterhouse is a huge favorite), sausages of different flavors and thickness, racks of ribs/ spareribs, whole fish (kingklip, snoek) and crayfish/ rock lobster.
Boerewors is a staple at the South African braai, which is a farmer sausage in a long coil made with different meats including pork, lamb, Kudu or Springbok (or combination of all four) and flavored with various spices such as coriander seed, black pepper, nutmeg, cloves and allspice.
The use of game meats is common and meats are typically marinated or rubbed with spices before going on the grill. Indian spices are also common, especially in Durban, and the play on sweet and sour is prolific – dried fruits and vinegars are used often in chutneys and relishes.
The other main part of the meal in some regions of the country is pap (thickened porridge), or krummelpap (crumb porridge), which is traditionally eaten with the meat. Pap is made from finely ground corn/maize (similar to polenta) and is a staple of local African communities. It can be eaten with a tomato and onion sauce or a spicier chakalaka at a braai.
Can you share any tips for recreating South African braai for at-home cooks?
Braais are casual and laid-back social events where families and friends converge on a picnic spot, someone’s home in the garden or on the veranda with their own meat, salad, or side dish on hand. The tradition typically starts with a glass of Chenin Blanc or an ice-cold beer and a little Biltong (similar to jerky). Braai Day is celebrated annually by South Africans across the world on September 24; this is a celebration of South Africa’s rich cultural heritage and its unique national pastime, the braai.
Elizabeth Binder’s Peri-Peri Steak
The use of Peri-Peri chilies and sauces has been filtered into South Africa from our Portuguese-speaking neighboring countries, Mozambique and Angola. The Peri-Peri referred to as ‘African Bird’s Eye’ or Piri-Piri chili, is quite small and very hot. If you can’t get hold of it, use any small and potent chili. In real braai life you will use Peri-Peri sauce or rubs often. It goes particularly well with braai’d steak, chicken, fish and prawns. I suggest you make it in large quantities!
| South African Braai |
- 8 prime New York strip steaks (1.5 inches thick, about 14 to 16 ounces each; the thickness is more important than the weight)
- extra virgin olive oil
- Peri-Peri spice rub (see recipe below)
- (for rub): 4 tbsp smoked sweet paprika
- 1 tbsp cayenne pepper
- 4 tbsp course ground black pepper
- 4 tbsp lemon zest (zest 4 lemons)
- 2 clove garlic, minced
- 2 tbsp turbinado sugar
- 6 tbsp kosher salt
- Lightly coat each side of the steaks with extra virgin olive oil, then lift the steaks to allow the excess oil to drip off.
- Coat each side of the steaks with good tbsp of peri-peri spice rub.
- Place the meat on the hottest part of the grill. If at any time the grill flares up, move the steaks to the outside edge, returning them to the center when the flame dies down.
- Do not slide the steaks across the grill; gently pick them up with tongs. The key is not to flip them around.
- Ultimately you want to turn a New York strip steak only three times, cooking each side twice for 3 minutes at a time (for a total cooking time of 12 minutes), to get a rare steak with adequate char.
- Allow the meat to rest for 4 – 5 minutes before serving, to allows the juices to emerge from the center.
- Spice Rub Method: Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix well.
- Store (makes 1.5 cups) in an airtight container.
Elizabeth Binder’s Chakalaka
Chakalaka is a simple vegetable relish, typically spicy made with onions, tomatoes and often beans. There are many variations on how to make Chakalaka, often depending on region and family tradition and every household has their own version. This is a required condiment or side at South African braais!
Serves 8
Ingredients
2 – 3 tbsp canola oil
1 knuckle fresh ginger, peeled and finely diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 green jalapeno, remove seeds and finely dice
2 yellow onions, diced
2 – 3 tbsp marsala curry powder
1 green bell pepper, diced
1 red bell pepper, diced
1 lg carrot, peeled and grated
3 baskets cherry / toy box tomatoes
2 cups cooked cannellini beans (1 cup dried makes 2 cups cooked)
Method
Fry ginger, garlic and onion in the oil until soft and translucent. Add curry powder and toast lightly over a medium heat.
Add peppers and carrots and stir well, then add tomatoes, stir well and cover with a lid and simmer for twenty minutes. Simmer allowing the tomatoes to burst and release their natural juices. Add a little water if needed and stir frequently.
Remove lid and add cooked beans and simmer for an additional 5 minutes. Remove from heat and serve hot or cold.
Enjoy this very special recipe!
(Photo Credit: Elizabeth Binder | Web: www.elizabethbinder.com | Twitter: @ChefLizzieB | Facebook: ChefLizzieBinder)
Thanks, Elizabeth and Christina!